Tag: smart home

  • How to Access Home Assistant Remotely with Tailscale on a NAS (No Port Forwarding Required)

    How to Access Home Assistant Remotely with Tailscale on a NAS (No Port Forwarding Required)

    One of the biggest things I wanted after setting up Home Assistant was reliable remote access.

    At first, I assumed this would be simple. Install Home Assistant, install the mobile app, sign in remotely somehow, and that would be the end of it.

    The deeper I got into self hosting though, the more I realised remote access is one of those areas where things become complicated surprisingly quickly. Every guide seemed to recommend something different, from opening ports on the router to setting up reverse proxies, SSL certificates, Cloudflare tunnels and domain names.

    None of those things are inherently bad, but when you are still building your understanding it becomes difficult to know what is actually necessary and what is just adding complexity.

    There was another factor as well: subscriptions. I completely understand why Home Assistant Cloud exists and for many people it is probably the right solution. But like a lot of people these days, it feels as though everything wants a monthly fee.

    I was not trying to avoid spending money entirely. I just wanted to see if I could achieve reliable and secure remote access using the hardware and software I already had, without exposing Home Assistant directly to the internet while I was still figuring things out.

    That is what led me to Tailscale. It gave me a way to get remote access working without turning it into a much bigger networking project.

    My setup

    For reference, this is the setup I am currently running.

    The NAS itself is a UGREEN NASync DXP2800 running Docker containers for both Home Assistant and Tailscale. If you’re interested in the hardware itself, I covered my experience in my  UGREEN NASync DXP2800 Review After 2 Months.

    There is no port forwarding, no reverse proxy, no public Home Assistant exposure, and no Home Assistant Cloud subscription.

    That probably sounds restrictive at first, especially if you spend enough time reading forums where people are building very advanced setups. But honestly, that was exactly the point.

    Despite working in IT, I did not want this to become a project that required constant maintenance. I wanted something that was secure, made sense, and just worked day to day without needing to be constantly revisited.

    Just because a solution is more advanced does not automatically make it better for your situation. For me, the goal was not to build the most complex setup possible. It was to build one that was secure, reliable, and easy to live with long term.

    That is what pushed me towards Tailscale.

    Why I chose Tailscale

    The biggest reason was simplicity, not because the alternatives were beyond me, but because I was trying to solve a specific problem rather than build a networking project.

    There are plenty of ways to provide remote access to Home Assistant. You can use reverse proxies, SSL certificates, Cloudflare tunnels, domain names, port forwarding and various other combinations depending on how much control you want.

    The problem is that every additional layer becomes something else to configure, secure and maintain.

    For some people that is part of the hobby, and there is nothing wrong with that. For me, the goal was simply to access Home Assistant securely when I was away from home.

    Tailscale felt like a very clean solution to that problem. Instead of exposing Home Assistant publicly and then protecting it afterwards, it creates a private encrypted network between devices you already trust.

    In practice, that meant my phone could communicate directly with my NAS without Home Assistant ever being exposed to the public internet.

    That shift in approach made everything much easier to reason about. I was not publishing a service and securing it, I was extending a private network.

    For a home setup, that balance between simplicity, security and reliability was hard to ignore.

    The benefit I was not expecting

    When I first started looking at remote access, I was focused almost entirely on Home Assistant. The goal was simply to be able to open dashboards and make sure automations worked when I was away from home.

    What I did not really think about at the time was that I was solving a much bigger problem.

    Once Tailscale was working, Home Assistant was only one of the things I could access remotely. I also had other services running on my NAS, including my Recipe App and Home Dashboard. Several of these are applications I discussed in my  Docker Containers I Still Use One Year Later article, and Tailscale effectively gave me secure remote access to all of them at the same time.

    That was the point where it clicked. Tailscale stopped feeling like a Home Assistant tool and started feeling like part of the underlying infrastructure of my home network. The more services I added locally, the more useful it became.

    The Home Assistant benefits were still significant. Presence detection became more reliable, location updates worked more consistently, and geofenced automations behaved the way I expected them to.

    But the bigger takeaway was that I only needed to solve remote access once. Every service I run now, and anything I add in the future, can use the same setup.

    Before you start

    This guide assumes you already have Home Assistant running and accessible on your local network.

    If you are starting from scratch, make sure you can access Home Assistant locally first, for example:

    http://192.168.x.x:8123

    Do not move on until this works reliably. Otherwise you end up troubleshooting multiple things at once.

    Checking Home Assistant locally

    Before adding Tailscale, confirm Home Assistant is actually listening on port 8123.

    sudo ss -tulpn | grep 8123

    You should see Home Assistant (usually as python3) listening on that port. If not, fix that first.

    Installing Tailscale in Docker

    Tailscale running as a Docker container on a UGREEN NAS alongside other self-hosted applications.
    Tailscale running as a Docker container on my UGREEN NAS.

    Install Tailscale as a Docker container on your NAS.

    docker pull tailscale/tailscale:latest
    docker run -d \
    --name=tailscale \
    --hostname=nas \
    --network=host \
    --cap-add=NET_ADMIN \
    --cap-add=NET_RAW \
    -v tailscale-data:/var/lib \
    tailscale/tailscale:latest

    Check the logs to get the authentication link:

    docker logs tailscale

    Open the URL shown, sign in, and approve the device.

    Make sure to click this link right away, as Tailscale login URLs expire after a few minutes. If it has expired, simply restart the container or re-check the logs to generate a new one.

    Note: In this example, Tailscale stores its configuration in a Docker named volume called tailscale-data. If you prefer to keep your container data in a specific folder for easier backups or management, you can replace the named volume with a local path that suits your environment.

    For example:

    -v /path/to/tailscale-data:/var/lib

    The exact location will depend on your operating system, NAS, or Docker setup.

    Verify the connection:

    docker exec -it tailscale tailscale status

    Setting up Tailscale on your phone

    Tailscale mobile app showing connected devices and assigned tailnet IP addresses.
    The Tailscale app lets you confirm your devices are connected and quickly find your NAS Tailscale IP address.

    Installing Tailscale on the NAS is only half of the setup. You also need it running on the device you actually want to connect from, which in my case is my iPhone.

    Download the Tailscale app from the App Store and sign in using the same account you used to authenticate the NAS. Once signed in, your phone will appear in your Tailscale admin console alongside your NAS.

    At that point, your phone is part of the same private network. Your phone is no longer “connecting into” your home network, it is effectively part of it.

    One useful thing is that the Tailscale app shows all connected devices and their assigned IP addresses. That means you can quickly check your NAS Tailscale IP directly from your phone without needing to SSH in.

    This is useful when setting things up or troubleshooting because you can confirm:

    • your NAS is online
    • your phone is connected to the tailnet
    • the correct Tailscale IP is being used

    Finding the Tailscale IP

    Get the Tailscale IP:

    docker exec -it tailscale tailscale ip -4

    You will get something like:

    100.x.x.x

    Use that to access Home Assistant remotely:

    http://100.x.x.x:8123

    This uses HTTP, not HTTPS. Tailscale already encrypts the connection, so forcing HTTPS here will break things.

    Configuring the Home Assistant Companion App

    Home Assistant Companion App server settings showing internal and external URL configuration.
    Directly after “Configuring the Home Assistant Companion App” and before you explain Internal vs External URLs.

    In the Home Assistant Companion App, you need to set the Internal URL and External URL.

    On iPhone, open the app and go to:

    Settings → Companion App → Server Settings

    (If you have multiple servers configured, tap your server first, then open Server Settings.)

    Use your local IP for Internal URL:

    http://192.168.x.x:8123

    Use your Tailscale IP for External URL:

    http://100.x.x.x:8123

    Both should use HTTP. Tailscale already encrypts the connection, so you do not need HTTPS here.

    Once set, back out of the menu and give the app a few seconds to reconnect. If everything is correct, it should connect both on WiFi and over Tailscale without any errors.

    VPN On Demand on iPhone

    One thing I highly recommend enabling is VPN On Demand inside the Tailscale app.

    Enable it for both WiFi and cellular so the connection is automatic. That way you do not need to remember to manually connect before opening Home Assistant.

    This makes the whole setup feel much more seamless day to day and also improves reliability for things like presence detection and geofenced automations because your phone maintains a consistent connection back to Home Assistant.

    The issue that caused the most confusion

    The biggest problem I hit was not Home Assistant. It was Tailscale Serve taking over port 8123.

    sudo ss -tulpn | grep 8123

    If you do not see Home Assistant on that port, something else has taken it.

    Fix it with:

    tailscale serve reset

    Hardware I Use

    Before I wrap up, a quick note: some of the links below are Amazon affiliate links. If you choose to purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products I personally use or have hands-on experience with.

    The software in this guide is free, but if you’re curious about the hardware behind my setup, this is what I currently use:

    I’ve been using this setup for Home Assistant, Docker containers, remote access through Tailscale, and various self-hosted projects. If you’re building something similar, these are the components I have the most hands-on experience with.

    Final thoughts

    Tailscale ended up being one of the most useful additions to my setup, not because it was flashy, but because it removed friction.

    Once it was configured, I stopped thinking about remote access entirely. Combined with a stable home network, which I discussed in  What Actually Happens on Your Network (Why WiFi Feels Inconsistent), it became one of those rare pieces of infrastructure that simply fades into the background and does its job.

    There are more advanced ways to achieve the same result, and for some setups they will make sense. But for me, this struck the right balance. It solved the problem I actually had without introducing more moving parts to maintain.

    Looking back, that was the biggest win. Not just remote access, but a simple foundation I can keep building on without having to rethink it every time I add something new.

  • The Docker Containers I Still Use One Year Later on My NAS

    The Docker Containers I Still Use One Year Later on My NAS

    A year ago I wrote about the best Docker containers to run on a NAS. At the time, I was still in the “this is exciting, what else can I install?” phase. That phase is useful, and honestly it is part of the fun, but it is not the same as living with these containers day after day.

    After a year, my view has changed quite a bit. I no longer think the best Docker containers are always the most impressive ones. The best ones are the ones that keep solving a real problem without creating new ones.

    That sounds obvious, but it’s very easy to forget when you first set up a NAS. You start with storage, then Docker appears, then suddenly you are looking at dashboards, monitoring tools, media servers, smart home platforms, DNS blockers, download managers, and random utilities you did not even know existed two weeks earlier.

    This post is not another “install these 20 containers” list. I already wrote that kind of post n my earlier post on the best Docker containers for a NAS. This is the follow-up I wish more people wrote: what I actually kept, what I removed, what I still want to revisit, and what I would tell someone setting up Docker on a NAS for the first time.

    How Docker changed how I use my NAS

    When I bought my NAS, I mostly thought of it as storage. I wanted somewhere for backups, files, photos, and maybe some media. That’s still important, but Docker changed the role of the NAS completely.

    Instead of being a box that only stores files, it became a small home server. It could run Home Assistant for smart home automation, local apps that only I use, monitoring tools, and services that sit quietly in the background until I need them.

    That’s the part that’s hard to appreciate until you try it. A NAS with Docker is not just “storage plus apps”. It becomes infrastructure for your home. It can run things locally, keep data inside your own network, and remove some dependence on cloud services.

    But there is a catch. Every container you install has a cost. Not always a money cost, but a maintenance cost. It might use CPU, RAM, storage, network access, database writes, logs, or background activity. It might wake your HDDs when you expected the NAS to stay quiet. It might need updates. It might break. It might make your setup more complicated than it needs to be.

    That’s the lesson I learned over the last year. Docker is powerful, but it is also easy to overdo.

    My current rule: install for a problem, not for curiosity

    The biggest change in my thinking is that I no longer install containers just because they sound useful. I still like experimenting, but I now separate “interesting” from “actually worth running all the time”.

    A good container should do at least one of these things:

    • fix a genuine day-to-day annoyance
    • replace a cloud service I do not want to depend on
    • make the NAS more useful day to day
    • run quietly without constant maintenance
    • justify the resources it uses

    If it does not meet one of those, I probably do not need it running permanently.

    That does not mean you should never experiment. Experimenting is how you learn. But there is a difference between testing a container for a weekend and letting it become part of your permanent setup.

    Home Assistant: the one that genuinely changed my setup

    Home Assistant is the container that made the biggest difference for me.

    Custom Home Assistant dashboard running on a NAS with smart home controls, weather information, lighting zones, and sensor data.
    My Home Assistant dashboard running locally on my NAS. I recently rebuilt the layout from scratch, so it’s still very much a work in progress, but it already gives me a much cleaner overview of lighting, sensors, and smart home controls around the house.

    At first, I used it for simple automations. Motion sensors turning on lights, basic routines, and small quality-of-life improvements. Nothing too advanced. But even those simple automations changed how the house felt.

    The important thing I learned is that Home Assistant is only as good as the reliability of the devices and network around it. If a motion sensor is slow to report, or a light takes a second too long to respond, the automation feels bad even if Home Assistant itself is working perfectly.

    That was a big shift in how I thought about it. When something was delayed, my first instinct was to blame the automation or the container. In reality, the issue was often the communication path. Sensor to router, router to Home Assistant, Home Assistant back to the device. Every wireless step can add a little inconsistency.

    Once I improved my network setup, Home Assistant became much more dependable. A lot of that came down to reducing weak wireless paths and removing inconsistent connections between devices, which I covered in more detail in my post about WiFi vs wired consistency for smart home setups.

    That is why Home Assistant is one of the first things I would recommend if someone is interested in smart home control, but I would also warn them not to judge it too quickly. If it feels inconsistent, check the network and devices before assuming Home Assistant is bad.

    Who should install Home Assistant?

    Install Home Assistant if you have more than a couple of smart home devices and want them to work together instead of living in separate apps.

    It is especially useful if you have devices from different brands and want one central place for automations. For example, you might have SwitchBot devices, smart lights, sensors, and other equipment that all work fine individually but become much more useful when linked together.

    Who should skip it for now?

    If you only have one or two smart devices and are happy using the manufacturer apps, Home Assistant may be overkill. It is powerful, but it also rewards patience. You will probably spend time tweaking, testing, and learning how your devices actually behave.

    For me, it is worth it. But it is not a “set it and forget it in ten minutes” container.

    One thing I have added since then is Tailscale so I can securely access Home Assistant remotely without exposing my network directly to the internet. That alone completely changed how useful the setup feels day to day, especially when checking automations or devices while away from home. It also lets me use geofenced automations remotely without needing to pay for Home Assistant Cloud, which was a nice bonus. I will probably do a separate post on that because remote access is one of those areas where it is very easy to do the wrong thing if you are new to self hosting.

    Uptime Kuma: useful, but not essential for my setup

    Uptime Kuma is one of those containers that feels brilliant when you first install it. It gives you a clean dashboard showing whether your services are online, and it can notify you when something goes down.

    If you run a lot of services, it makes sense. If you host things for other people, it makes even more sense. It is also great if you are learning because it helps you understand what is actually running on your network.

    I liked it. I really did.

    The problem is that I eventually removed it because one of my monitoring containers seemed to be keeping my HDDs active. I am not saying Uptime Kuma is bad or that everyone will have that problem, but in my setup, I started caring more about disk activity, noise, and letting the NAS sit quietly when idle.

    That is something beginners often overlook. A monitoring tool is useful, but it also has to monitor things constantly. Depending on how it is configured, where its data is stored, and how often it checks services, it may create background activity you did not expect.

    Would I still recommend Uptime Kuma?

    Yes, but with context.

    If you are running several containers and want a simple way to see whether they are online, Uptime Kuma is excellent. It is one of the easiest monitoring tools to understand, and the interface is beginner friendly.

    But if your NAS is mainly for storage and you care about keeping HDD activity low, I would treat it as optional rather than essential. Install it, test it, and pay attention to whether your disks stay active more than expected.

    A good container can still be the wrong fit for your priorities.

    Portracker: helpful for learning, but I did not keep it

    Portracker was another container I liked because it helped me understand what was happening with my ports and services. When you are new to Docker, it is easy to lose track of what is exposed, what is mapped, and what is actually reachable on your network.

    That kind of visibility is useful. It gives you a better mental picture of your setup.

    But like Uptime Kuma, I eventually removed it. Again, the issue was not that it was bad. It was that my setup had changed. I no longer needed constant visibility enough to justify keeping every monitoring-style tool running.

    This is probably one of the biggest lessons from using Docker long term: some containers are great teachers, but not permanent residents.

    Portracker helped me learn. Once I understood my setup better, I did not need it running all the time.

    The DNS blockers: my unfinished business

    Pi-hole is the container I wanted to love, but I never got it working the way I wanted.

    To be clear, the problem was not that I could not start the container. The problem was that I could not get my network traffic to actually route through Pi-hole properly. In other words, Pi-hole may be running, but if your devices are not using it for DNS, it is not doing anything useful.

    That distinction is important for beginners.

    Installing the container is only step one. The real work is making sure your router, DHCP settings, DNS settings, and devices are actually pointing at it. If they are not, you can stare at a perfectly healthy Pi-hole dashboard while your network completely ignores it.

    That was my issue.

    At the time, I probably did not understand my network well enough to troubleshoot it properly. Since then, I have learned more about VLANs, mesh behaviour, DNS routing, and how devices actually communicate across the network. Because of that, I actually want to give Pi-hole another proper attempt.

    The appeal is obvious. Network-wide ad blocking, cleaner DNS control, and better visibility into what devices are requesting. For people who like understanding their network, Pi-hole is still one of the classic self-hosted tools.

    But I would not describe it as “install and done” for everyone.

    If your router makes it easy to set a custom DNS server, Pi-hole can be straightforward. If your router hides those settings, uses its own DNS behaviour, has awkward mesh or IoT network handling, or if your devices bypass local DNS, it can become frustrating quickly.

    That does not mean Pi-hole is bad. It means DNS is one of those areas where the container is only half the story.

    I also experimented with AdGuard Home briefly because I liked the cleaner interface and overall approach, but I never spent enough time with it to make a fair comparison. Right now, both of them sit in the category of “containers I still want to figure out properly” rather than containers I can fully recommend from long-term experience.

    That will probably become a future post by itself.

    My self-hosted recipe app: the thing that changed my mindset

    The most unexpected part of running Docker on my NAS was not installing someone else’s container. It was eventually hosting something I built myself.

    I created a local recipe app so I can store recipes in a way that works for me. It runs on my NAS and is available on my local network. It is not a huge commercial-style project, and that is exactly the point.

    It solved a specific problem I had.

    That changed how I looked at the NAS. It was no longer just a device for storage or prebuilt apps. It became a place where I could run my own tools.

    Self hosted recipe app running locally on a NAS with meal categories, recipe cards, and meal planning features.
    One of the unexpected benefits of Docker was eventually hosting my own apps locally. This recipe app runs entirely on my NAS and is used day to day for meal planning and recipe storage.

    This is one of the most underrated parts of Docker. You are not limited to whatever your NAS app store provides. If you can build or find a small web app, you can often run it yourself.

    Why this matters for beginners

    You do not need to be a professional developer to appreciate this idea. Even if you never build your own app, understanding that your NAS can host local tools changes how you think about it.

    Maybe it is a recipe app. Maybe it is a dashboard. Maybe it is a small tool for your household. The point is that Docker turns the NAS into something flexible.

    That is when the NAS stops feeling like “a hard drive on the network” and starts feeling like a small home platform.

    What I learned about NVMe and Docker

    Another thing I understand better now is where fast storage actually matters. I also touched on some of this in my UGREEN NASync DXP2800 review because Docker workloads changed how I approached storage much more than I originally expected.

    For bulk storage, HDDs still make the most sense. They are cheaper per TB and ideal for backups, media, archives, and general file storage.

    For apps and containers, NVMe can make the system feel more responsive. Containers often involve lots of small reads and writes, databases, thumbnails, logs, configuration files, and web interfaces. Those are the kinds of workloads where SSDs feel much better than HDDs.

    That does not mean everyone needs NVMe on day one. If you are building your first NAS, I would still prioritise enough HDD capacity first, especially if your main goal is storage.

    But if you plan to run Docker seriously, NVMe is worth considering. Not necessarily massive drives, but enough fast storage for apps, containers, and potentially cache.

    The key is not “NVMe is better than HDD”. The key is using each type of storage for the job it suits best.

    What I would install first today

    If I was setting up Docker on a NAS again from scratch, I would not install ten containers immediately.

    I would start with one container that solves a real problem, then build from there.

    For me, the first serious install would still be Home Assistant because it has had the biggest day-to-day impact. After that, I would consider a monitoring tool like Uptime Kuma, but I would pay close attention to whether it increases disk activity. Then I would revisit Pi-hole carefully, making sure the DNS routing side is actually working before judging the container itself.

    I would not install things just because they appear on every “best Docker containers” list.

    That is how you end up with a busy NAS, a dozen dashboards, and very little that actually improves your life.

    What I would avoid as a beginner

    The biggest mistake is installing too much too quickly.

    Every container adds another thing to understand. Where does it store data? Does it need a database? Does it expose a port? Does it need internet access? Does it write logs constantly? Does it wake the drives? How do you back it up? How do you update it?

    None of that means Docker is bad. It just means containers are not free from responsibility.

    I would also avoid exposing anything to the internet until you understand what you are doing. Running an app locally on your home network is one thing. Opening ports so you can access it from anywhere is completely different.

    For most beginners, local-only is the right starting point.

    What I still think Docker is best for

    After a year, I think Docker is best for three things on a home NAS.

    First, smart home control. Home Assistant is the obvious example here.

    Second, useful local services. This could be a monitoring tool, a DNS tool, or a small personal app.

    Third, learning. Docker teaches you a lot about networking, storage, ports, backups, persistence, and how services actually run.

    That learning curve can be frustrating, but it is also what makes the NAS more valuable over time.

    Final thoughts

    A year ago, I mostly thought Docker was a way to add cool features to my NAS.

    Now I think it is more about choosing what deserves to run permanently in your home.

    Some containers stayed because they genuinely improved my setup. Some were removed because they added more background activity than value. Others, like Pi-hole, are still on my revisit list because I know the idea is useful even if my first attempt did not work.

    That is the honest version of Docker on a NAS. It is powerful, flexible, and genuinely useful, but it is not about installing everything.

    It is about building a setup that solves real problems without creating too many new ones.

  • How to Design a Reliable Smart Home (Using Datacenter Principles)

    How to Design a Reliable Smart Home (Using Datacenter Principles)

    Most people do not think about infrastructure when building a smart home.

    They buy a few smart bulbs, maybe a camera or two, add a smart speaker, and slowly build up automation over time. Everything works well enough until the day something goes wrong.

    The internet drops. The router crashes. A power outage hits.

    Suddenly the entire smart home stops being smart.

    After working in datacenters for years, I cannot help noticing the difference between how systems are designed at work compared to how most homes are set up. In a datacenter, failure is not a surprise. It is expected. Systems are designed with that in mind from day one.

    At home, the opposite is usually true. Devices are added one by one with very little thought about what happens if something breaks.

    The interesting thing is that you do not need enterprise hardware or complicated setups to borrow some of those design principles. A few small decisions can make a home setup far more reliable.

    Typical smart home vs infrastructure focused smart home network diagram
    A typical smart home often relies on a single router, creating a single point of failure. Adding infrastructure like UPS protection, segmentation, and local automation improves reliability significantly.

    Design With Failure in Mind

    One of the biggest mindset differences between home setups and datacenters is the assumption that things will fail.

    Hard drives fail. Networks crash. Power goes out.

    In a professional environment the question is rarely if something will fail. The real question is what happens when it does. Disks fail, switches reboot, firmware bugs appear, and power drops unexpectedly. Systems are designed so that these events do not bring everything down at once.

    Most homes are not built this way. There is usually a single router handling WiFi, internet access, and often the entire smart home platform. If that device stops working, everything connected to it stops too.

    I experienced this myself early on when my network dropped and suddenly Alexa became completely unresponsive. At the time, almost everything in the house relied on voice control. Without the network, nothing worked.

    There are plenty of other small failures that can cause the same frustration. A router firmware update might reboot unexpectedly. An ISP outage can disconnect cloud services. A failing disk in a NAS can degrade performance long before it completely dies.

    It was a good reminder that smart homes are only as reliable as the infrastructure behind them.

    Since then I have tried to make sure that if something fails, it does not take the entire house down with it.

    Smart home infrastructure stack showing power, network, platform, device and automation layers
    A reliable smart home works like an infrastructure stack. Power and networking support the platforms, devices, and automations above them.

    Protect the Power First

    In a datacenter, power protection is taken extremely seriously. Sudden power loss can damage systems, corrupt data, or bring down services unexpectedly.

    At home, most people plug everything directly into the wall and hope for the best.

    One of the first things I recommend for anyone running a NAS, router, or home server is a UPS (uninterruptible power supply).

    A UPS does two very simple but important things.

    First, it protects equipment from sudden power loss. This prevents things like NAS corruption when drives are actively writing data.

    Second, it gives systems enough time to shut down safely during longer outages.

    In my own setup, the UPS is dedicated to the NAS itself. It is a NAS-specific unit designed to protect the system during outages, allowing it to shut down gracefully rather than losing power abruptly. That has already proven useful in practice. During power cuts, the UPS has kept the NAS running long enough to shut down properly, and when power returns, the NAS powers back up without drama.

    My router is not currently backed up in the same way. If I needed temporary network power during an outage, I do at least have an EcoFlow River Pro 2 available as a fallback, but that is a more manual solution rather than something permanently integrated into the setup.

    If you are curious about the specific unit I use, I covered it in detail in my review of the UGREEN US3000 NAS UPS:

    UGREEN US3000 NAS UPS review

    I also wrote a broader overview of different backup power approaches for smart homes here:

    Smart home power backup solutions

    Backups Should Not Live in the Same House

    Another lesson from working with infrastructure is that backups only matter if they survive disasters.

    A lot of people buy a NAS thinking they are now fully protected. In reality, a NAS alone is not a backup strategy.

    If the NAS fails, gets stolen, or the house experiences fire or flood damage, the data disappears along with it.

    This is why many professional environments follow the 3-2-1 backup rule:

    • 3 copies of your data
    • stored on 2 different types of media
    • with at least 1 copy stored off site

    At home the same logic applies.

    If you are running a NAS at home, this becomes even more important. I run my own storage on a UGREEN NASync system, which I reviewed after two months of real-world use:

    UGREEN NASync DXP2800 review after two months

    In my case I automate off site backups using rclone to send encrypted backups to cloud storage on Azure:

    Automated NAS backups with rclone

    In my case I run backups from my NAS to an external location so that important data exists in more than one physical place. Even if something catastrophic happened to the house, the data would still exist elsewhere.

    Network Segmentation Without Overcomplicating Things

    In datacenters, networks are carefully segmented so different systems do not interfere with each other.

    Most homes run everything on a single flat network.

    Phones, laptops, cameras, smart plugs, TVs, and automation devices are all mixed together. For many homes this works fine, but as the number of devices grows it can start to cause problems.

    One approach borrowed from professional infrastructure is network segmentation. This separates certain devices from the rest of the network so they operate in their own space.

    The good news is that modern routers have started making this easier.

    For example, my current router, the TP-Link Deco BE85, includes a dedicated IoT network designed specifically for smart home devices.

    I covered the router itself in more detail in my full review here:

    TP-Link Deco BE85 review

    Modern routers are also beginning to support newer local first smart home standards. The Deco BE85 can act as a Thread Border Router, allowing Thread based devices to communicate locally without relying on cloud services.

    This fits well with the broader idea of building a resilient smart home infrastructure. If the internet connection drops, devices that communicate locally can continue working rather than becoming completely unresponsive. This allows things like cameras, smart plugs, and sensors to live on their own network while the main network handles laptops, phones, and other personal devices.

    This provides some of the benefits of network segmentation without needing to manually configure VLANs or advanced networking features.

    Monitoring Matters More Than You Think

    In professional infrastructure environments, systems are constantly monitored.

    Disk health is checked. Power status is monitored. Alerts are triggered when something starts to fail.

    At home, problems are often discovered only after something stops working.

    Many NAS systems already include built in monitoring tools that track things like SMART disk data, temperatures, and system health. These systems can send alerts if a drive begins reporting errors or if something starts behaving unexpectedly.

    Catching a failing disk early is far less stressful than discovering the problem after the array degrades or fails.

    Even simple notifications can prevent major data loss.

    Cloud Dependence Is a Hidden Weak Point

    Smart homes often rely heavily on cloud services.

    Voice assistants, device integrations, and automation platforms frequently depend on an active internet connection to function. When the internet goes down, the entire system can suddenly stop responding.

    Since then I have tried to favour systems that can run locally where possible. Platforms like Home Assistant allow smart home devices to continue working even if the internet connection drops.

    I run Home Assistant directly on my NAS, and documented the setup here if you are interested in building a similar local first automation system:

    Installing Home Assistant on a UGREEN NAS

    This reduces reliance on external services and keeps automations functioning even during outages.

    A Simple Smart Home Reliability Checklist

    If you want a quick starting point, a few small decisions can make a surprisingly big difference.

    • Reliable router and stable home network
    • UPS protecting network equipment and NAS
    • Automatic NAS backups
    • Off site backup copy
    • Local automation where possible

    None of these require enterprise hardware, but together they dramatically improve reliability.

    You Do Not Need a Datacenter in Your House

    All of this might sound like over engineering, but the goal is not to turn a home into a miniature datacenter.

    The real takeaway is simply thinking about reliability earlier.

    A reliable router.

    A UPS protecting important devices.

    A backup strategy that survives disasters.

    Those three things alone already make a smart home far more resilient than most.

    Final Thoughts

    Working in datacenters has probably made me overly cautious about infrastructure. When you spend your days thinking about redundancy, monitoring, and failure scenarios, it is hard not to apply that thinking at home as well.

    The funny thing is that once you start thinking this way, it becomes difficult not to apply it everywhere. You start asking small questions most people never consider.

    What happens if the router dies?

    What happens if the internet drops?

    What happens if a drive fails overnight?

    Those questions are exactly what keep datacenters running smoothly. And surprisingly, they work just as well in a normal home.

    The good news is that building a reliable smart home does not require enterprise budgets or complicated setups.

    It mostly comes down to a few sensible design choices and remembering one simple principle.

    Things will eventually break. Planning for that ahead of time makes everything else work far more smoothly.

  • How I Actually Use a NAS Day to Day After the Setup Phase

    How I Actually Use a NAS Day to Day After the Setup Phase

    When people talk about NAS devices online, it usually falls into two extremes. Either everything is a shiny demo during the first week, or it turns into an over engineered home lab that barely resembles normal use.

    Both miss what actually matters long term.

    This post is about what ownership looks like after the excitement fades. When the NAS stops being a project and starts being part of daily life. What still runs, what quietly disappeared, and which decisions ended up saving time rather than creating more work.

    If you are trying to decide whether a NAS makes sense beyond the initial setup phase, this is the part that usually gets skipped.


    What runs 24 hours a day

    These are the services that stay on permanently because they deliver value without demanding attention.

    Automated backups (local first, cloud as insurance)

    Local backups are the foundation of my setup. Both my MacBook and my wife’s MacBook back up automatically to the NAS, and our iPhone photo libraries are included as well. Once configured, this becomes invisible. Devices back up when they are on the network, and there is nothing to remember or trigger manually.

    On top of that, I use Azure Blob Storage as an off site insurance layer, not as a requirement and not as something I would tell everyone to do.

    If you are running a four bay NAS with RAID and your data lives entirely at home, an off site backup is a nice to have rather than a must have. Local redundancy already covers most everyday failures. The cloud layer exists to protect against unlikely but high impact events such as theft, fire, or total hardware loss.

    In my case, I am storing roughly 3TB in the Cool tier with RA GRS enabled, meaning the data is replicated across regions. This currently costs around $65 to $70 per month, and the cost is dominated by geo replication, cool tier storage, and write operations.

    I have not had to restore from this backup yet, which is exactly how I want it to be. It exists purely for peace of mind rather than day to day recovery.

    The backups are handled using rclone, which gives me full control over scheduling, encryption, bandwidth usage, and retention policies. It also avoids vendor lock in. If I ever decide to move away from Azure, the tooling stays the same. I have a full breakdown of how this is set up in my rclone backup guide.


    Core Docker services

    A small number of Docker containers run continuously because they support everything else I rely on.

    Home Assistant is always running. It handles automations, device integrations, and state tracking quietly in the background. I rarely interact with it directly day to day, which is exactly the point. When automations are reliable, they disappear from your attention entirely.

    This pattern repeats across the setup. Anything that needs constant monitoring or manual intervention does not survive long term.


    What runs occasionally

    These are tasks that exist to maintain confidence in the system rather than provide convenience.

    Maintenance and administration

    I do not actively manage the NAS day to day, but I do check in periodically.

    This usually means:

    • Updating Docker containers when meaningful updates are released
    • Applying NAS firmware updates
    • Reviewing SMART data and disk health
    • Confirming backups are still completing as expected

    This happens infrequently, often weeks apart. The goal is not optimisation or performance tuning. It is reassurance. I want to know the system is still healthy and behaving as expected.

    Manual actions

    Some things are intentionally kept manual.

    I occasionally restore files from backups to confirm that restores actually work. This is not something I do often, but it matters. A backup that has never been tested is only theoretical protection.

    Container updates are another example. While critical updates are automated, some applications require manual updates or restarts. I prefer this balance. Automation handles the boring and predictable parts, while I stay in control of anything that could cause disruption.

    These interactions are rare, but deliberate. Over time, they build trust in the system rather than add ongoing work.


    What I am actively planning to add

    This is where the role of the NAS will expand beyond storage and background services.

    PoE security cameras

    I am preparing to move away from battery powered cameras and into a PoE based setup once UGREEN’s native cameras are available.

    At the moment, I use SwitchBot outdoor cameras. They are genuinely good cameras, but battery management is a constant friction point. I have already run USB power to some of them, and in one location that cable is far from ideal. It works, but it is not how I want fixed infrastructure to be installed.

    The plan is to introduce a dedicated PoE switch and run Ethernet to each camera location. CAT5e, CAT6, and even CAT7 will all work for PoE cameras. In practice, CAT6 offers a good balance of reliability, shielding, and future flexibility without chasing specifications that add little real world benefit. The priority here is consistency rather than speed.

    The appeal of the upcoming UGREEN cameras is not just PoE. Features like local AI processing, tight NAS integration, and removing subscription dependencies are exactly what I want. I have already covered those features in detail in my UGREEN SynCare AI Home Security NAS post.

    Once deployed, the NAS shifts from being storage and services into proper local surveillance infrastructure, with recordings kept on site and fully under my control.


    What I use it for beyond storage

    A family recipe web app

    One use case I did not originally plan for is hosting small, purpose built applications.

    I am currently building a simple web app to store and manage family recipes. Rather than paying for another subscription or relying on third party apps, it runs locally in Docker and does exactly what we need. No ads, no accounts, and no recurring costs.

    This is a good example of where a NAS quietly replaces paid services. The value is not complexity, but ownership and flexibility over time.

    Media streaming

    I originally used Plex for media streaming, but over time I moved to Jellyfin.

    Plex increasingly depends on user accounts, cloud services, and paid tiers. Pricing changes, features moving behind subscriptions, and past security incidents eventually made me uncomfortable with the direction of the platform.

    Jellyfin is fully self hosted. There is no account requirement, no cloud authentication, and no external dependency. Everything stays local. The trade off is less polish, but the benefit is full control.

    For my usage, that trade off is worth it. Media playback should not depend on an external service being online, a subscription remaining valid, or an account existing at all. Once everything is local, media becomes another background service rather than something that needs to be managed.


    Built in apps I still use

    While Docker handles most workloads, I do not avoid built in NAS features entirely.

    I actively use:

    • The UGREEN photo app for managing local photo libraries
    • The UGREEN UPS integration in the control panel for monitoring power events and safe shutdowns (US3000 UPS review)

    The difference is intent. I use built in apps where they add value and integrate tightly with the system, and Docker where flexibility matters more.


    What surprised me over time

    Stability changes how you think about performance

    I still care about performance, but I no longer obsess over it. The system has proven itself stable under real workloads, which means I spend less time watching metrics and more time trusting the platform.

    A NAS becomes background infrastructure

    Once configured properly, a NAS fades into the background. That is a good thing. It should feel closer to household infrastructure than a gadget you constantly interact with.

    Simplicity scales better than features

    The setups that lasted were the simple ones. Anything that added complexity without a clear benefit was eventually removed.


    Who this kind of setup is actually for

    This approach works well for people who want reliability first.

    If you enjoy constant tweaking, experimentation, and rebuilding, there is nothing wrong with that. Some people genuinely enjoy running a home lab as a hobby.

    For me, the NAS is not a hobby. It is infrastructure. I want it to work, recover gracefully when something goes wrong, and stay out of the way the rest of the time.


    When something goes wrong

    This is where the setup really earns its keep.

    Things do go wrong occasionally. Files get deleted by mistake. Power drops unexpectedly. A service stops behaving the way it should. The difference now is that these situations are no longer disruptive.

    If a file is deleted, it is a restore job, not a panic. If there is a power cut, the UPS handles shutdown cleanly and everything comes back up without intervention. If something looks off, I already know where to check and what a healthy system looks like.

    Even the worst case scenarios are planned for. Local backups cover day to day mistakes. Off site backups exist for events I hope never happen. Nothing relies on a single point of failure that would force me to scramble.

    That is the real outcome of this setup. Not that failures never happen, but that they stop being stressful when they do.


    Why this setup works long term

    Owning a NAS is not exciting long term, and that is exactly why it is worth having.

    Once the setup phase is over, it becomes dependable infrastructure. Files are protected locally, off site backups exist for worst case scenarios, automations run quietly, and services behave predictably.

    The goal was never to build the most complex setup possible. It was to build something that reduces friction over time.

    A setup like this saves more than money. It saves attention. Fewer batteries to charge, fewer subscriptions to track, fewer dashboards to check, and fewer decisions to revisit.

    That is the real value of a NAS once you stop treating it like a project and start treating it like infrastructure.

    If you’re thinking through a similar setup and want a second opinion, I’m always happy to talk it through!

  • How to Store Security Camera Footage at Home using NAS or NVR

    How to Store Security Camera Footage at Home using NAS or NVR

    Security camera systems have become more capable, flexible, and open over the last decade. One of the most significant developments is the shift from closed cloud storage ecosystems to open, standards based recording.

    A Network Attached Storage (NAS) system can serve as a robust central recording point, provided the cameras support open protocols and the NAS is configured to accept, index, and store those recordings properly. When designed correctly, a NAS based workflow offers long term retention, predictable performance, and complete ownership of your data.

    Note: For practical insight into how a modern NAS behaves under these workloads, read my post on UGREEN NASync DXP2800 Review 2 Months Later. For background on why network storage is valuable in the first place, my guide on NAS Network Storage and Why You Need It provides a useful introduction.


    Understanding the NAS Recording Workflow

    A NAS does not record video by itself. It has no built in awareness of surveillance workflows unless specific software is installed. The NAS becomes a recording engine only when three conditions are met.

    1. The camera must send data using an open standard.
    2. The network must provide stable addressing and sufficient sustained throughput.
    3. The NAS must run a service that can receive, process, and index the incoming streams.

    Regardless of the vendor, the workflow operates in stages. The camera encodes the video. The data is transmitted via RTSP or file transfer. The NAS writes it to storage. Retention rules then determine when that data is deleted. While simple on paper, the technical details behind each stage determine reliability.


    Camera Protocols: The Language of Recording

    Marketing descriptions often promise local recording, but this can sometimes refer to SD cards rather than network storage. The technical specification sheet is your authoritative source. A NAS can only record from cameras that support the following open protocols.

    • RTSP (Real Time Streaming Protocol): This is the industry standard for continuous recording. The camera provides a persistent video URL that the NAS connects to. RTSP connections are long lived and highly sensitive to network interruptions.
    • ONVIF Profile S: This protocol allows cameras and recorders to communicate in a standard way. Cameras supporting ONVIF usually expose an RTSP stream and allow the NAS to discover and configure the device automatically. It guarantees a baseline of interoperability.
    • FTP (File Transfer Protocol): Event driven cameras often use this. When motion occurs, the camera creates a specific file and uploads it to a folder on the NAS. This is not suitable for continuous recording, as it would generate thousands of fragmented files per hour.
    • SMB or NFS: Similar to FTP, the camera writes directly to a shared folder. The NAS is unaware that recording is happening. It simply sees files being written.

    The bottom line: If a camera relies on a proprietary cloud app and does not support RTSP, ONVIF, or FTP, it cannot be integrated into a NAS workflow.

    A modern digital illustration showing how a security camera sends video through a home network to different storage systems, with glowing network lines, a router, and cloud backup icons.
    How a security camera sends footage through the home network to different storage options.

    How the NAS Processes Video

    Once the camera is connected, the NAS performs several key tasks that determine recording quality.

    • Stream negotiation: For RTSP workflows, the NAS initiates the session. Data is sent over UDP (efficient but sensitive to interference) or TCP (more resilient to packet loss but higher latency).
    • Indexing versus raw storage: Advanced surveillance software, such as Synology Surveillance Station or Frigate, creates a database index which allows timeline scrubbing and smart playback. Simpler setups just dump raw files, which are easier to back up but harder to review manually.
    • Retention enforcement: Surveillance datasets grow rapidly. The NAS must frequently scan and delete old footage to prevent volume exhaustion. This logic must run efficiently to avoid bogging down the system.

    Encoding Formats: H.264 versus H.265

    The codec you choose determines storage requirements and CPU load.

    • H.264: The most compatible standard. It uses more storage space than newer codecs but requires relatively little processing power to decode and view.
    • H.265 (HEVC): Highly efficient. It can reduce storage needs significantly for the same visual quality, but it requires more processing power to view and is less compatible with older browser based players.

    Bitrate behaviour: You must also choose between Variable Bitrate (VBR) and Constant Bitrate (CBR).

    • VBR saves space by lowering quality during static scenes, but storage usage will fluctuate depending on activity.
    • CBR ensures predictable storage consumption but may sacrifice image quality during high motion scenes.

    Storage Hardware: Why Desktop Drives Fail

    Security camera workloads are unique. Continuous recording generates a constant write workload. Event based recording creates sudden, uneven bursts.

    • HDD: Drives specifically tuned for surveillance or NAS use are strongly recommended. Consumer desktop drives are not designed for twenty four seven write cycles and may suffer rapid mechanical failure or performance degradation.
    • SSD: Solid state drives offer excellent speed, but continuous video recording consumes their write endurance quickly. Only enterprise grade or high endurance NAS SSDs should be used for surveillance.

    Deep dive: For a detailed analysis of suitable storage, read my post on Choosing the Best Drives for Your NAS Setup.

    A side-by-side comparison of PC, NAS, and surveillance hard drives, showing which storage type is suitable for continuous recording and always-on workloads.

    Networking: The Silent Killer of Reliability

    Network quality is the most overlooked factor in surveillance. A fast speed test does not guarantee a stable surveillance network. These are the technical realities that matter.

    1. Stable addressing: RTSP streams rely on fixed IP addresses. If the router assigns a new IP to the camera, recording breaks. Static IPs or DHCP reservations are essential for cameras and the NAS.
    2. Session persistence: Mesh Wi Fi systems often steer devices between nodes. This handover causes a micro outage, which can create corrupted frames or dropped connections in recordings. Cameras should ideally be associated with a single access point.
    3. Airtime congestion: Wi Fi cameras share airtime with every other device on the channel. Even with a strong signal, a congested channel will cause upload failures and inconsistent performance.
    4. Upload saturation: Many home internet connections have limited upload bandwidth. If multiple cameras trigger at once or if you back up footage to the cloud, you can saturate the uplink and cause dropped frames or failed transfers.

    NAS versus NVR: Which Architecture is Right?

    • NVR (Network Video Recorder): A purpose built appliance dedicated to recording. It is straightforward and reliable but focused almost entirely on video.
    • NAS (Network Attached Storage): A general purpose server. It offers flexible retention, open file formats, and the ability to run other applications such as media servers, home automation and backup tools alongside surveillance workloads.

    If you want a dedicated appliance that requires very little ongoing thought, an NVR is usually the better choice. If you want a central hub for data, applications, and cameras, a NAS workflow provides more flexibility and control.


    Conclusion

    A NAS becomes a powerful surveillance tool when the workflow is respected end to end. Cameras must use open standards such as RTSP or ONVIF. The network must provide stable addressing and consistent performance rather than just impressive speed test results. Storage must be chosen for endurance as well as capacity. Surveillance software must be configured to handle streams, indexing and retention without overwhelming the hardware.

    This workflow centric view removes guesswork. By focusing on these technical realities, it becomes possible to build a system that delivers consistent results for years rather than months.

    Next steps:

  • UGREEN U3000 UPS First Look — Small but Mighty

    UGREEN U3000 UPS First Look — Small but Mighty

    The wait is finally over — my UGREEN U3000 UPS has arrived!

    Right out of the box, I was caught off guard by its size. It’s unbelievably compact — almost the same footprint as my UGREEN Magnetic Power Bank, which makes it feel more like a portable charger than a full UPS system.

    This little unit is designed specifically for UGREEN’s NASync lineup, offering 120W of DC backup power with zero-second transfer time. That means if the power cuts out, your NAS keeps running instantly with no delay.

    It’s a clean, modern take on backup power — no bulky fans, no heavy lead-acid batteries, and no cluttered cabling. Just a sleek matte black box that slots quietly beside your NAS.

    I’ve just got it set up with my UGREEN NASync DXP2800, and here’s a quick look at the hardware, the software integration, and why this might be one of the smartest little UPS units around.


    Unboxing & First Impressions

    UGREEN U3000 UPS packaging showing 120W DC backup design.
    Simple, clean packaging that sets the tone for UGREEN’s minimalist design approach

    The box presentation is classic UGREEN — understated and premium. Even before opening it, you get the sense that this is designed to fit neatly into a modern setup rather than dominate it.


    Compact Design

    UGREEN U3000 UPS on desk showing its compact matte finish.
    The matte finish and solid build make it feel far more premium than its size suggests.

    Once unboxed, the size difference really stands out. When placed next to my UGREEN Magnetic Power Bank, they’re nearly identical in dimensions. Seeing them side by side drives home just how compact this UPS truly is — it’s impressive that something this small can output 120W of continuous power.

    UGREEN U3000 UPS compared with UGREEN Magnetic Power Bank.
    Almost pocket-sized — the U3000 looks more like a power bank than a UPS.

    Ports & Connectivity

    Close-up of UGREEN U3000 UPS rear ports including DC IN, DC OUT, and USB-C
    Straightforward port layout — DC IN, DC OUT, and USB-C for monitoring.

    The rear layout is clean and functional, featuring DC input/output and a USB-C port for communication. It runs silently and uses passive cooling, which is a welcome change from traditional UPS fans humming in the background.


    Smart Integration

    PC control panel view of UGREEN US3000 UPS showing connection status, firmware version, and NUT options.
    The U3000 is recognised instantly through the NAS interface with full NUT support.

    Connecting the U3000 to the NAS was completely plug-and-play. It appeared right away under the UPS settings as UGREEN US3000, showing battery capacity, firmware version, and auto-shutdown options.

    The UPS also supports NUT (Network UPS Tools) — an open-source protocol that allows the NAS to detect power changes and automatically shut down safely if the battery runs low. It’s a small but important addition that makes the system much more reliable in real-world conditions.


    Next Steps

    Over the next few days, I’ll see how the U3000 performs under normal NAS workloads — how quickly it switches to battery, how stable it runs during short outages, and how the NUT integration behaves over extended use.

    If you are building out your NAS, check my guide Choosing the Best Drives for Your NAS Setup and my roundup NAS Compatible Security Cameras to see how it all fits together.

    Stay tuned — this compact little unit might be one of the best NAS accessories UGREEN has released so far.

  • What Tech Deals to Expect from Amazon’s October Sale (Based on Past Years)

    What Tech Deals to Expect from Amazon’s October Sale (Based on Past Years)

    Amazon’s next major tech sale is just around the corner — and while the exact deals are under wraps, we can get a pretty good idea of what to expect based on previous Prime Day, Spring Deal, and Big Deal Day events. Historically, October sales have been some of the best opportunities for pre-holiday tech savings, often rivaling or even surpassing July Prime Day discounts.

    If you’re eyeing PC upgrades, NAS gear, or smart home essentials, now’s the time to start planning. I’ll also be sharing my own upcoming PC upgrade plan next week, so you can see exactly how I’m approaching this year’s sale. I’ll be covering live deals when the sale kicks off, but for now, here’s what history tells us might return.


    Tech Categories to Watch

    These are categories that consistently appeared in past Prime Day and Spring sale coverage by outlets like WIRED, PCMag, TechRadar, and CNET.

    PC Hardware and Upgrades

    This is where October sales can be especially valuable. If you’re building or refreshing your setup, here’s what tends to drop:

    • CPUs: AMD’s Ryzen 7000 and 5000 series have both seen price cuts of 10–25% during Prime events. The October sales are often the time when slightly older but still very capable models fall to their lowest prices. Great if you want strong gaming performance without overspending.
    • Motherboards: ASUS, MSI, and Gigabyte boards across B550, X570, and B650 chipsets frequently get bundled with CPUs or discounted on their own. Expect mid-range boards to offer the best value, while high-end models usually see smaller but still meaningful discounts.
    • SSDs: NVMe drives like the WD SN850X, Samsung 980 Pro, and Crucial P5 Plus have been heavily featured. Last year, 2 TB Gen4 models often dipped below $100, making them excellent options for both PC builds and NAS cache drives.
    • Power Supplies: Prime sales regularly feature Corsair, ASUS, and be quiet! modular PSUs. These aren’t the most exciting parts to buy, but grabbing a Gold or Platinum-rated unit on discount is one of the smartest ways to future-proof your system.
    • Cooling and Cases: AIO liquid coolers and cases from brands like NZXT, Lian Li, and Cooler Master tend to show up. Sales are a good chance to pick up premium cooling or aesthetic cases without paying full launch prices.

    💡 Examples from 2024:

    • AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D — $329 → $279 (October 2024)
    • WD Black SN850X 2TB NVMe SSD — $179 → $129 (July and October 2024)
    • Corsair RM850x PSU — $144 → $109 (October 2024)

    (As WIRED reported in their Prime Day 2025 tech coverage, SSDs and CPUs were among the most consistently featured deals, making them a safe bet to watch again.)

    Storage & NAS Gear

    TechRadar, Forbes, and WIRED consistently highlight storage as a hot category:

    • External SSDs & HDDs — Samsung T7, SanDisk Extreme, and Seagate Expansion drives were all featured
    • NAS Enclosures — Synology and UGREEN devices sometimes bundle with disks or get standalone price cuts
    • NVMe Cache Drives — Crucial, WD, and Kingston TLC SSDs often see discounts (ideal for NAS caching)

    🔐 Trend: Bundled storage (e.g. 2 TB SSD + enclosure) was common during past sales.

    💡 Examples from 2024:

    • Synology DS923+ NAS — $599 → $499 (October 2024)
    • SanDisk Extreme 2TB Portable SSD — $239 → $139 (July 2024)
    • Seagate 5TB Expansion Portable HDD — $129 → $89 (October 2024)

    (PCMag’s roundup of early October deals also pointed to portable SSDs and NAS storage as recurring highlights.)

    Smart Home & Networking

    Smart gear is one of Amazon’s core sale drivers. In the last few events:

    • Wi-Fi 6 and 6E Mesh Systems — TP-Link Deco and ASUS ZenWiFi were regulars
    • Smart Plugs, Lights & Sensors — Especially Matter-compatible or Alexa-integrated
    • Security Cameras — Reolink, Blink, and Tapo indoor/outdoor cams saw 20–40% off

    📡 Heads up: Prime-exclusive Alexa device bundles may return based on past Big Deal Days.

    💡 Examples from 2024:

    • TP-Link Deco XE75 Wi-Fi 6E Mesh (3-pack) — $399 → $279 (October 2024)
    • Echo Dot (5th Gen) — $49 → $22 (July and October 2024)
    • Blink Outdoor 4 Camera Kit — $339 → $199 (October 2024)

    Accessories & Under-$100 Picks

    The sub-$100 category is where Amazon pushes volume:

    • Bluetooth earphones and chargers — Sony, Anker, and Beats were all on sale
    • Keyboard & Mouse Combos — Logitech and Corsair kits drop often
    • USB-C hubs & card readers — Anker, UGREEN, and Satechi are staples

    💡 Expect to see many of these in the “limited time” lightning deals section.

    💡 Examples from 2024:

    • Sony WH-1000XM4 headphones — $348 → $278 (October 2024)
    • Anker 737 GaNPrime 120W Charger — $94 → $59 (July 2024)
    • Logitech MX Keys Keyboard — $119 → $89 (October 2024)

    What Tech Media Say to Watch

    Outlets like WIRED, PCMag, and CNET regularly compile preview lists. A few key takeaways from their recent posts:

    • Past popular deals = likely repeat candidates (SSD models, Fire TV gear, smart cameras)
    • Laptop & MacBook deals often appear late but are worth tracking
    • Top sellers tend to reappear — Fire TV Stick, Echo Dot, SanDisk SSDs, etc.
    • PC parts saw deeper discounts during October vs July Prime Day in 2024

    (CNET also highlighted that last October’s sale was particularly strong for Apple products and storage — so if you’ve been waiting for a MacBook or iPad, history suggests it’s a good time to watch.)


    Prime Day vs Black Friday: Which Is Better for Tech?

    It’s fair to ask whether you’re better off waiting until Black Friday. The short answer: it depends on what you want.

    For PC parts, NAS, and accessories, October Prime events are often just as strong or better. Last year, 2TB NVMe SSDs and Ryzen CPUs hit their lowest prices in October, and many of those discounts simply repeated in November. The advantage of Prime Day is timing — you get the deals earlier and avoid stock selling out.

    For TVs, Apple gear, and gaming consoles, Black Friday tends to pull ahead because multiple retailers compete heavily. If those are your targets, waiting may pay off.

    For most readers here, though, October is the smarter bet for upgrades. You get holiday-season pricing without the chaos, and you can move into Black Friday with most of your core upgrades already secured.


    How to Prepare (Even If the Sale Hasn’t Started)

    1. Make your wishlist now — and include essentials and nice-to-haves
    2. Track current prices using Keepa or Amazon Price Tracker extensions
    3. Bookmark this blog — I’ll post a full roundup of tech deals when the event is live
    4. Plan your PC upgrades now — I’ll be sharing my own build journey in a separate post next week

    For more prep tips, check out my earlier post on Choosing the Best Drives for Your NAS for guidance on storage upgrades worth watching.


    Coming Soon…

    Next week I’ll share my own PC upgrade plan — covering what I’m replacing, what I’m keeping, and the parts I’m targeting in the October sale. If you’re considering a build or refresh, it’ll be a practical guide you can follow alongside the deals roundup once the sale goes live.


    Final Word

    Amazon’s October sale is one of the best times of the year to grab high-quality tech without waiting until Black Friday.

    Stay tuned — the sale is expected to go live October 7th, and I’ll be here with the best tech picks as they drop.

  • How AI is Transforming Smart Homes in 2025

    How AI is Transforming Smart Homes in 2025

    Smart homes have come a long way. What began with app-controlled lights and smart speakers has grown into connected ecosystems that manage energy use, strengthen security, and adapt to individual lifestyles. Artificial Intelligence (AI) is now taking this a step further. By learning from our habits and anticipating needs, AI makes smart homes more intuitive, predictive, and personalised than ever before.


    Real-World Examples of AI in Action

    AI is no longer a futuristic concept – it is already shaping daily life. Voice assistants like Alexa and Google Home respond to more than simple commands: they learn your patterns, suggest routines, and seamlessly control lighting or music. Smart thermostats such as Nest cut energy costs by adjusting temperatures automatically when you are away. Even robot vacuums use AI to map your home, avoid obstacles, and optimise cleaning routes.

    These small but powerful examples highlight how AI is quietly transforming daily routines into smoother, more efficient experiences.


    Security Benefits of AI

    Home security is one of the biggest winners from AI integration. Modern smart cameras don’t just detect movement – they can identify whether it’s a person, a pet, or a passing car. This reduces false alarms and ensures faster, more accurate responses.

    For instance, Reolink and Eufy security systems use AI to recognise suspicious behaviour, such as someone lingering outside your home. AI-driven doorbells can even tell the difference between family members, deliveries, and strangers. By filtering out irrelevant alerts, these systems provide peace of mind without overwhelming you with constant notifications.

    The result is a smarter, calmer layer of security that protects what matters most.

    Futuristic smart home security camera with a glowing AI holographic face above it, symbolising AI-powered motion detection and smart alerts.
    AI-powered cameras can distinguish between people, pets, and vehicles, reducing false alerts.

    The Pace of AI Improvements

    It’s impossible to ignore how quickly AI tools are advancing. In only a few years, platforms like ChatGPT, Microsoft Copilot, and Grok have evolved from basic Q&A bots into assistants capable of handling planning, analysis, and even decision-making. The same acceleration is happening in smart home AI, meaning features that feel premium today will likely become standard tomorrow.

    Think of the leap from Wi-Fi 5 to Wi-Fi 7. The difference was enormous, and AI is developing at an even faster rate. This speed matters: your smart home won’t remain static – it will continue to grow smarter over time, making each device a better investment.


    What Could Be Next?

    Looking ahead, AI has the potential to unlock a new wave of possibilities:

    • Adaptive Routines: Instead of fixed schedules, your home could recognise if you’ve had a late night and delay the morning coffee routine. Imagine lights staying dimmed a little longer and your coffee maker waiting until you’re actually awake.
    • Energy Optimisation: AI could predict peak electricity prices and run appliances such as dishwashers or EV chargers at the cheapest times. Picture your EV charging automatically at 2 a.m. when energy is lowest.
    • Cross-Device Intelligence: Imagine your NAS, cameras, and smart speakers sharing data to create a unified, AI-powered view of your home.

    These aren’t distant ideas – the technology already exists. What’s left is integration and refinement.

    Modern NAS storage device on a desk with a holographic AI brain projection, representing cross-device intelligence and smart home integration.
    AI could unify devices like NAS, cameras, and smart assistants into a single intelligent ecosystem.

    Should You Upgrade? A Quick Checklist

    Not sure if you’re ready to lean into AI-powered smart home tech? Here are a few practical checks:

    • Wi-Fi: Do you already have reliable Wi-Fi and a solid base of smart devices? (If not, check out my guide on Wi-Fi 6/7 Explained.)
    • Compatibility: Are your devices ready for Matter or other new standards?
    • Automation: Do you want routines that adapt to your lifestyle rather than just follow set schedules?
    • Cloud vs Local: Are you comfortable with cloud-based AI, or do you prefer local processing?
    • Security: Have you put measures in place to protect your data?

    If you tick most of these boxes, you’re in a good position to start adding AI-driven features.

    Futuristic city skyline illuminated in neon blue and purple with AI icons floating above, symbolising the future of connected smart homes.
    The future of smart living lies in AI-powered homes that evolve alongside rapid AI innovation.

    Final Thoughts

    AI isn’t just hype – it’s already reshaping the way we live with technology at home. From smarter security to lower energy bills and personalised routines, the benefits are here and growing fast. The real challenge is deciding when to adopt and which tools to trust.

    For many households, the best path is to start small. Add an AI-enhanced camera, try an adaptive thermostat, or set up an AI-powered routine in Home Assistant. As the technology matures, you can build out a smarter, more responsive system that truly makes life easier.

    If you’re planning upgrades, visit my Recommended Gear page where I highlight reliable options across networking, NAS, and smart home setups. Pairing the right hardware with emerging AI features will help you create a home that’s not just smarter, but genuinely more helpful.

    The future of smart homes isn’t about gadgets — it’s about creating a home that works seamlessly in the background, so you can focus on living. With AI, that future is closer than ever.

  • Best Security Cameras That Work Seamlessly with Your NAS

    When it comes to home security, pairing your camera system with your NAS (Network Attached Storage) can offer unbeatable advantages like local recording, improved privacy, and easy video management. If you’ve already invested in a NAS system, it makes sense to choose security cameras that integrate seamlessly. Personally, I use the UGREEN NASync DXP2800, so I’ll be highlighting options that work well with it throughout this guide. This guide covers the best NAS-compatible camera brands and models, highlighting why NAS compatibility matters and how it simplifies your home security setup.

    Why NAS Compatibility Matters

    Having a NAS-compatible security camera means:

    • Enhanced privacy: Videos stored locally mean no subscription fees or worries about cloud privacy. For instance, your home’s front door footage won’t be stored on a remote server, reducing the risk of unauthorized access.
    • Reliable storage: Continuous recording ensures you don’t miss important events, scheduled backups prevent data loss, and easy management helps you quickly review footage in case of incidents.
    • Integration: Cameras that support protocols like RTSP or ONVIF easily integrate with NAS systems, allowing seamless management through third-party apps or direct NAS interfaces, simplifying your overall workflow.

    For example, imagine a scenario where your Wi-Fi temporarily drops. With cloud-dependent cameras, you might lose critical footage. However, NAS-compatible cameras continue recording locally, ensuring continuous surveillance without interruptions.

    Top Camera Brands That Support NAS

    BrandRecommended ModelsResolutionConnectionPrice RangeKey Features
    ReolinkRLC-833A, RLC-511WA4K/5MPPoE/Wi-Fi\$\$Affordable, reliable, excellent NAS support
    HikvisionDS-2CD2043G0-I, DS-2CD2385G1-I4MP/8MPPoE\$\$\$Professional-grade quality, robust build
    Eufy SecurityEufyCam 2C, EufyCam 31080p/2KWi-Fi\$\$User-friendly, wireless convenience

    1. Reolink

    • Strengths: Reliable, excellent NAS compatibility, budget-friendly.
    • Best For: Users looking for excellent video quality, reliability, and easy NAS integration at a good price.

    2. Hikvision

    • Strengths: Professional-grade quality, advanced configuration, robust build.
    • Best For: Advanced users or those with complex setups requiring high-quality professional cameras.

    3. Eufy Security

    • Strengths: User-friendly, high-quality wireless cameras, no subscription required.
    • Best For: Users who prefer wireless flexibility with easy NAS integration and simple mobile app control.

    Quick Setup Experience with UGREEN NASync

    If you’re just getting started with Docker apps on your NAS, check out my post on must-have Docker containers for NAS beginners.

    UGREEN NASync doesn’t offer a native surveillance app like Synology’s Surveillance Station, but it supports Docker, allowing you to easily install lightweight NVR solutions. Here’s a simplified step-by-step overview to help you get started:

    1. Access Docker on your NAS: Open your UGREEN NASync web interface and navigate to the Docker application.
    2. Choose and Deploy Your NVR Solution: Search for “Frigate,” “Shinobi,” or “MotionEye” within Docker Hub and pull the image to your NAS.
    3. Configure Container Settings: Set the container’s environment variables, assign storage volumes for recordings, and map required ports.
    4. Launch and Access the Application: Start the container and access your chosen NVR via your browser using the assigned port (e.g., http://NAS_IP:port).
    5. Integrate Your Camera: Add your camera’s RTSP or ONVIF stream using its IP and login credentials within the app.

    Consider including screenshots of each stage to visually guide readers through the process, especially if they’re new to Docker setups.

    Local Storage vs. Cloud Storage Recap

    Local storage offers several clear advantages over cloud storage, especially in scenarios such as:

    • Network outages: If your internet connection goes down, local storage continues to function normally, recording and storing your footage without interruptions. In contrast, cloud-based systems might lose critical footage during outages.
    • Privacy-sensitive situations: If you’re concerned about data privacy or security breaches, local storage eliminates the risks associated with third-party cloud providers potentially mishandling your footage.
    • Long-term cost savings: While cloud storage often involves recurring subscription fees, investing in local storage via NAS means a one-time expense. For example, a household that runs multiple cameras continuously can save significantly in subscription fees over several years.
    • Customized storage management: You have full control over storage allocation, data retention periods, and backups, allowing for greater flexibility tailored specifically to your personal or business requirements.

    Best Use Cases

    • Home Entrances & Garages: Cameras from Reolink or Hikvision offer exceptional reliability and high-quality footage ideal for entryways and garages. For instance, the Reolink RLC-833A captures clear facial details even in low-light scenarios, significantly aiding in identification if an incident occurs.
    Example top-down layout showing various camera placements, including corridor mode on the side path and wide-angle coverage across driveways and entrances.
    • Baby Monitors & Indoor Surveillance: Eufy’s wireless cameras provide unmatched ease of use with mobile integration, perfect for parents monitoring babies or pets remotely.
    • Outdoor Surveillance: Hikvision and Reolink cameras are known for robust, weather-resistant construction.
    Reolink Standard View vs Corridor Mode: A side-by-side comparison showing how traditional 16:9 viewing (left) wastes vertical space in narrow areas, while corridor mode (right, 9:16) maximises coverage down long hallways or side paths.

    PoE vs. Wi-Fi Cameras: Which Should You Choose?

    • PoE (Power-over-Ethernet): Reliable wired connection, ideal for permanent installations, simpler cable management, highly recommended for outdoor setups.
    • Wi-Fi Cameras: Easier installation, ideal for renters or temporary setups, flexible camera placement but dependent on strong Wi-Fi.

    Choose PoE for reliability and Wi-Fi for flexibility based on your specific setup needs.

    What’s Next for My Setup

    I may also look at integrating object detection with Home Assistant on my NAS in the future. Beyond that, I plan to explore smart alerts, secure remote access, and making the most of corridor mode for tighter, vertical spaces — like a narrow side alley — where traditional wide-angle views aren’t efficient. These refinements aim to build a smart security system that’s both effective and privacy-conscious, without revealing sensitive home layout details.

    Common Mistakes to Avoid

    • Ignoring storage capacity needs.
    • Overlooking camera resolution compatibility with your NAS.
    • Improper network setup leading to bandwidth issues.

    Personal Insight: My Camera Journey

    If you’re not familiar with the UGREEN NASync, I reviewed it in detail here to help you understand what it’s capable of.

    I’m currently using Switchbot Wi-Fi cameras, which have served well for basic home monitoring, but I’ve experienced occasional connectivity drops and limitations in managing footage efficiently. Given my setup, which prioritises reliability, high-quality video, and seamless integration with my UGREEN NASync NAS, I’m strongly considering transitioning to Reolink PoE cameras.

    Specifically, I’m looking at the Reolink RLC-833A for front-facing or driveway monitoring due to its impressive 4K resolution, person and vehicle detection, and spotlight features. For areas like the backyard, where running Ethernet cables might be more difficult, the RLC-511WA seems like a perfect fit. I’ll be documenting this upgrade in future posts, including setup tips, integration steps, and performance insights. I’m also planning to use a camera with corridor mode for the narrow side path of my house — this setting optimises vertical viewing angles, making it ideal for covering long, narrow spaces without wasting frame area on walls or empty ground.


    By choosing NAS-compatible security cameras, you’re taking control of your home’s safety and enjoying seamless integration with your existing NAS setup. I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences—feel free to comment below!

  • UGREEN NASync DXP2800 Review After 2 Months of Daily Use

    UGREEN NASync DXP2800 Review After 2 Months of Daily Use

    When I first picked up the UGREEN NASync DXP2800, I was looking for a cost effective, quiet, and beginner friendly way to run containers and back up devices around the house. Two months later, it’s fair to say this NAS has earned its place in my setup, but it’s also time to move on.

    This will be my last post dedicated to the DXP2800. Not because it’s failed me, but because I’ve reached a point where the NAS is no longer the centrepiece. It’s now just one part of a much larger smart home and self hosting ecosystem. So before I pivot to new topics, here’s my final verdict on the DXP2800.

    Key Specs (Quick Overview)

    • CPU: Intel N100 (4 cores)
    • RAM: 8GB DDR5 (upgradeable)
    • Drive Bays: 2 (3.5/2.5 inch)
    • Networking: 2.5GbE
    • Expansion: Dual M.2 NVMe slots
    • Video Output: HDMI
    • OS: UGOS (Linux based)

    🛒 Looking to buy the NAS featured in this review?

    💡 Need more bays?

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    Build Quality and Noise

    The DXP2800 is solidly built and looks great on a desk. It runs quietly if you’re using SSDs instead of HDDs, but when using spinning drives, the noise is noticeable, though not awful. All NAS systems will face the same reality with HDDs, so it’s not a unique issue to this model.

    Reviewers across several tech sites have praised the DXP2800’s design. The aluminium alloy chassis gives it a premium feel, and the magnetic dust filter and tool less drive bays are practical and appreciated. For a 2 bay system, it punches above its weight in design quality.

    Performance

    I’ve tested a range of Docker containers like Home Assistant, Pi hole, and others, and the NAS handled everything I tried smoothly. The Intel N100 and 8GB of DDR5 RAM offer more than enough headroom for most home lab needs, especially if you’re not using heavy VM workloads.

    While I don’t run Portainer, Plex, or Jellyfin myself, I recommended them in a previous post based on community feedback and ease of use. Docker itself runs reliably, and containers have been easy enough to deploy manually without needing a GUI.

    The inclusion of a 2.5GbE port and dual M.2 NVMe slots is another bonus, especially for users who want SSD caching or faster read/write operations. Some reviewers noted the lack of a second Ethernet port, but for most home users, it’s not a dealbreaker.

    Software (UGOS)

    UGOS is still developing, but I’ve personally had no issues with it. Everything works as expected. While some reviewers have pointed out that it’s not as polished as Synology’s DSM or QNAP’s QTS, I’ve found it stable and reliable for my needs.

    Once Docker was installed and configured, I rarely needed to interact with UGOS directly. It stays out of the way and hasn’t caused any crashes, slowdowns, or compatibility issues.

    Interestingly, users of the larger DXP4800+ model have echoed this sentiment. One community member reported using it to run Home Assistant in a VM, stream music and video, back up mobile photos automatically, and edit documents via ONLYOFFICE. They were particularly impressed with the unified web portal and mobile app, which simplified access and syncing across devices. They also noted that UGOS receives frequent updates and has continued to evolve, with features like object recognition, OCR, and AI tagging in the photo app.

    While there are still some gaps like limited mobile document editing and occasional network filtering issues when accessing remotely, it’s clear UGOS is heading in a promising direction.

    Real World Use

    Currently, I use the DXP2800 for:

    • Running Home Assistant to manage smart home devices
    • Hosting some personal files and containers

    I also installed Pi hole, but haven’t directed network traffic through it yet due to limitations with my router hardware.

    While I’ve recommended other containers in my previous post like Navidrome, Frigate, WireGuard, and media servers, I’m not using those myself. They’re great options depending on your needs and future plans.

    I’m also exploring PoE camera setups and considering Frigate as part of that project, so the NAS may take on a bigger role in home surveillance later down the line.

    Recent discussions suggest that Frigate does in fact run well on these NASync models. One user reported it handled four IP cameras with total CPU usage sitting around twenty percent. Others have noted ffmpeg can push CPU load higher, especially on older or lower power chips, but the Intel N100 in the DXP2800 should handle light to moderate workloads comfortably. Using a Coral TPU is also being explored in the community to offload object detection, which could be worth looking into if I go that route.

    Protecting Your NAS with the UGREEN US3000 UPS

    After two months of non-stop uptime, it’s clear that stable power is just as important as good hardware. A brief outage can interrupt writes or risk drive corruption — something no NAS owner wants to deal with. That’s why I’ve added the UGREEN US3000 UPS to my setup.

    This compact 120 W DC UPS is designed specifically for NASync devices and integrates directly with UGOS Pro. Once connected via DC and USB-C, it’s detected automatically and lets you configure auto-shutdown or short standby modes under Control Panel → Hardware & Power → UPS. Setup takes just a few minutes and adds complete peace of mind for unattended operation.

    It runs silently, provides around ten minutes of backup for the DXP2800, and ensures a clean, controlled shutdown every time. If you’d like a deeper look at performance, build quality, and teardown details, check out my full UGREEN US3000 UPS Review.

    Would I Still Recommend It?

    Yes, with a few caveats.

    If you want to run Docker apps, manage your own services, and don’t mind using community resources for support, the DXP2800 is a solid deal for the price. If you prefer a more polished software experience, plug and play apps, or long term vendor support, Synology might be a better fit.

    That said, I’ve been impressed by how far UGREEN have come in a short time. Their software updates have been consistent and meaningful, and the platform feels like it’s improving month by month. Compared to Synology’s latest hardware restrictions, like requiring branded drives, UGREEN’s more open approach could be a major draw for anyone looking to build a flexible and affordable home setup.

    For me, it’s hit the sweet spot. Powerful enough to do what I want, flexible enough to grow with me, and affordable enough that I didn’t feel like I was buying into an overkill system.

    What’s Next?

    This will be my last focused post on the DXP2800. Moving forward, I’ll be looking at:

    • Choosing PoE cameras for home security
    • Setting up Frigate properly with Coral or NPU support (if needed)
    • Automating alerts and recordings with Home Assistant
    • Managing local and cloud storage for recordings

    The NAS will still be a part of that, but it’s no longer the star.

    If you’re following along for the self hosting journey, the next few posts should be right up your alley. If you’re curious about camera compatibility, Frigate setups, or how this NAS holds up as an NVR, stay tuned — that’s what’s next.

    Want to stay in the loop? Follow the blog or drop a comment if there’s a specific setup you’re curious about. I’ll be diving into smart security next.