Tag: switchbot

  • The Smart Home Automations I Actually Use

    The Smart Home Automations I Actually Use

    It has been a few months since my last post. Life has been busy, and although I have continued tinkering with things at home, I haven’t had much time to sit down and write about any of it.

    That has at least given me an opportunity to see which of my smart-home automations remain useful after the initial novelty has worn off. I enjoy experimenting with Home Assistant, sensors and networking, but I don’t want to automate something simply because I can. The better automations are the ones I gradually stop noticing.

    My setup is not especially complicated, and it certainly isn’t finished. Some parts run through Home Assistant, others remain in the SwitchBot app, and at least one motion sensor continues to make me question my choice of hardware.

    Arriving home after dark

    One of my more useful automations is also one of the simplest. When either of us arrives home after dark, Home Assistant turns on the entrance light along with the main living-room lights.

    The automation watches the device trackers for our phones and triggers when either one changes to home. Before switching anything on, it checks the illuminance reading from the SwitchBot Hub 2. If the reading is below 70 lux, the entrance light, living-room light and globe light are switched on.

    The entrance light turns itself off again after five minutes, while the living-room lights remain on. This gives us enough time to get inside and put everything down without leaving the entrance illuminated unnecessarily.

    Home Assistant YAML automation that turns on the entrance and living-room lights when someone arrives home after dark
    Home Assistant checks whether either of us has arrived home and uses the Hub 2’s illuminance reading to decide whether the lights are needed.

    The light level check is important. A time-based condition would be easier, but sunset does not necessarily mean the house is dark. Weather, curtains and the time of year all affect the amount of light inside, so using the actual illuminance reading produces more consistent results.

    There are also a few smaller automations built around the same idea. Lights can switch off after a delay, and presence conditions stop certain routines from running in an empty house. None of these is particularly impressive by itself, but together they remove several small jobs from the day.

    Making geofencing work remotely

    The awkward part of the arrival automation was not controlling the lights. It was making sure Home Assistant could receive reliable location updates while I was away from home.

    Home Assistant is not exposed directly to the internet, and I would prefer to keep it that way. Instead, I use Tailscale to provide a secure connection back to my home network. This allows the Home Assistant companion app on my phone to communicate with the server remotely without requiring me to open ports on the router.

    Once Tailscale was configured correctly, presence detection started working reliably while I was away. It has been largely uneventful since then, which is exactly what I want from the networking underneath an automation.

    There can still be a slight delay before a phone reports that it has entered the home zone, so I would not use this arrangement for anything where a few seconds really matters. For turning on lights as we arrive, however, it has been dependable enough.

    Keeping the living room comfortable

    Summer temperatures here regularly reach the mid-to-high 30s, so keeping the living room comfortable is less of a luxury than it might sound. I normally aim for approximately 27°C with humidity around 60%.

    The SwitchBot Hub 2 already measures and displays the temperature and relative humidity, so I use those readings as part of a climate automation. When motion is detected in the living room, the automation checks that I am at home and that the room is both above 27.5°C and above 60% relative humidity.

    If all of those conditions are met, the air conditioner switches on in its automatic dry mode and the Switchbot circulator starts moving air around the room.

    SwitchBot automation using presence, living-room motion, temperature and humidity to control the air conditioner and circulator
    The SwitchBot automation checks presence, motion, temperature and humidity before switching on the air conditioner and Switchbot circulator.

    This is particularly helpful when I am working from home. The temperature tends to rise gradually, and I often do not notice until the room has already become uncomfortable. The Hub 2 can react before I reach the point of abandoning whatever I am doing to find the remote controls.

    The automation also avoids cooling an empty room. Presence confirms that I am home, while the living-room motion sensor provides a reasonable indication that the room is actually being used. It is not sophisticated room-presence detection, but it is sufficient for this purpose.

    This climate automation currently runs through the SwitchBot app rather than Home Assistant. The Hub 2 can control the air conditioner using infrared, and the Switchbot circulator is available through SwitchBot as well, so Home Assistant would add another layer without providing much benefit.

    I like having everything visible in Home Assistant, but I no longer think every automation has to run there. If a manufacturer’s local setup can perform a straightforward task reliably, I am happy to leave it alone. Home Assistant is most valuable when I need to combine devices and information from different systems.

    The troublesome hall motion sensor

    The hall automation is probably the weakest part of the current setup. Its job is straightforward: detect movement, turn on the hall light when it is needed, and turn it off again after a delay. In practice, the SwitchBot motion sensor was not always reporting movement reliably.

    The Bluetooth signal was the obvious problem. At its worst, the sensor was reporting approximately −99 dBm, which is extremely weak. At that level, missed or delayed updates were not particularly surprising.

    After changing the sensor battery and adjusting the placement, the signal improved to just under −80 dBm. That is a substantial improvement, although both changes happened at roughly the same time, so I cannot say with confidence how much each one contributed.

    The automation is behaving better now, but −80 dBm still leaves room for improvement.Walls, furniture and the position of the sensor relative to the TP-Link Bluetooth adapter all affect reception, and a motion sensor needs to report quickly if it is going to control lighting without becoming irritating.

    This is why I am still considering replacing the SwitchBot motion sensors. They are convenient and work well with the rest of the SwitchBot equipment, but the hall has exposed the limitations of relying on a weak Bluetooth connection. A Zigbee-based sensor, or another device with better local coverage, may eventually be a more dependable choice.

    I am not rushing to replace anything while the existing sensor is working, though. For now, I am monitoring the signal and seeing whether the battery and placement changes continue to make a difference.

    Keeping the setup practical

    The current arrangement is a mixture of different approaches. Home Assistant handles the arrival automation because it needs presence data, illuminance readings and lights from different parts of the system. Tailscale provides remote access without exposing Home Assistant publicly. SwitchBot handles the climate automation because it already has everything required to measure the room and control the appliances.

    That mixture is less tidy than forcing everything into one platform, but it has proven more practical. Centralising a device in Home Assistant is useful when it creates new possibilities. Doing it purely for the satisfaction of having another entity on a dashboard can create more work without making the house any better to live in.

    Reliability matters more to me now than the number of automations I can list. A basic light automation that works every evening is more valuable than an elaborate routine that needs regular attention. The hall sensor has been a useful reminder of that.

    Hardware behind my setup

    As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some links below are affiliate links, which help support the site at no additional cost to you.

    The main hardware used across my smart home and Home Assistant setup includes:

    • UGREEN NASync DXP2800 — my two-bay NAS and the machine running Home Assistant in Docker. Read my review here.
    • TP-Link UB500 Bluetooth 5.0 Nano USB Adapter — connected to the UGREEN NASync DXP2800 to give Home Assistant local Bluetooth access to nearby devices.
    • UGREEN US3000 UPS — protects the NAS and Home Assistant installation against sudden power loss.
    • SwitchBot Hub 2 — measures temperature, humidity and illuminance while also controlling the air conditioner.
    • SwitchBot Motion Sensor — used for motion-based lighting and living-room detection.
    • SwitchBot Circulator Fan — automatically circulates cool air when the living-room climate automation runs.
    • Philips Hue Bridge — connects the Philips Hue lighting system to Home Assistant.
    • Philips Hue smart bulbs — used for the entrance and living-room lighting automations.
    • SwitchBot Outdoor Camera — part of my wider smart-home monitoring setup.
    • AAA batteries — useful spares for the SwitchBot motion sensors, particularly when troubleshooting unreliable readings.

    Where I’ve landed

    None of these automations is especially dramatic. Lights come on when we arrive home, the living room cools down when it becomes hot and humid, and the hall light responds when somebody walks past. That is also why they have remained useful.

    For now, I am happy when the lights come on before I reach the switch and the living room starts cooling down without me having to think about it. The hall sensor is behaving better at just under −80 dBm, although I still haven’t ruled out replacing it.

    That is probably the reality of my smart home: it is never completely finished, but it is gradually becoming more useful.

  • Which Type of Security Camera Is Right for You?

    Which Type of Security Camera Is Right for You?

    I’m currently in the process of upgrading my home security system. Until now, I’ve been using a mix of battery and solar-powered SwitchBot cameras. They seemed ideal at first, but real-world use has been frustrating. I live in an area that doesn’t get consistent sunlight, so the solar panels often fail to keep the cameras charged. Worse, I’ve had to take them down regularly just to recharge them manually. That’s fine once or twice, but it gets annoying fast.

    So I started looking into the most common types of cameras out there. Each has its pros and cons, different storage methods, and a range of features depending on how you want to use them. Here’s a breakdown of what I’ve learned so far, including whether they support local SD cards, cloud backups, or integration with a NAS if that’s something you’re interested in.


    Cloud-Focused Cameras (e.g. Nest, Arlo)

    Best for: Users who want app-based access and minimal setup

    These cameras are designed to work as part of a broader smart home ecosystem. They often come loaded with features like face detection, voice alerts, and smart notifications. If you want a plug-and-play solution that lives inside a polished mobile app, they’re hard to beat. But they also come with limitations.

    Pros:

    • Very easy to set up
    • Smart features are built-in
    • Great mobile app support

    Cons:

    • Most features require a subscription
    • Local storage is limited or unavailable
    • You are locked into a vendor’s ecosystem
    • No support for NAS or open protocols like RTSP or ONVIF

    Storage:

    • Cloud storage is standard, but often limited without a paid plan
    • A few models support local SD or USB via a hub
    • Not compatible with NAS or custom storage solutions
    Hand mounting a Nest cloud-based security camera onto a magnetic wall mount in a modern indoor setting
    A Nest-style cloud camera — polished, app-friendly, but dependent on subscriptions for storage.

    Battery-Powered Cameras

    Best for: Outdoor areas without a nearby power source

    Battery-powered cameras are incredibly flexible. You can mount them anywhere without worrying about outlets or wiring. Most come with SD card support and mobile alerts when motion is detected. But there’s a tradeoff. Because they rely on batteries, they only record on motion and will need recharging — sometimes more often than expected.

    Pros:

    • Completely wireless, easy to install anywhere
    • Most offer SD card recording
    • No cables required

    Cons:

    • Needs to be taken down for recharging
    • Can’t record continuously
    • Limited smart features unless paired with a subscription service
    • No direct NAS support

    Storage:

    • Local SD card recording is common
    • Access through vendor app
    • Not suitable for NAS storage
    Cutaway view of a battery-powered outdoor security camera showing internal battery and circuit components
    Inside a typical battery-powered camera. Easy to install, but recharging gets old fast.

    Solar-Powered Cameras

    Best for: Remote areas where recharging manually isn’t an option

    These are essentially battery-powered cameras paired with solar panels. In the right environment, they can keep running for months without manual charging. In the wrong environment — like my home with limited sunlight — they become unreliable and frustrating.

    Pros:

    • Self-recharging in sunny areas
    • Great for off-grid setups
    • Flexible placement

    Cons:

    • Performance depends heavily on sunlight exposure
    • Still motion-only recording
    • Same SD and cloud storage limitations as battery models
    • Not compatible with NAS

    Storage:

    • SD card storage is usually included
    • Some brands offer optional cloud storage
    • NAS integration is not supported
    Outdoor solar-powered security camera mounted under an eave, connected to a solar panel with a visible cable
    A wall-mounted outdoor camera connected to a small solar panel for continuous charging.

    Wi-Fi Cameras (Plug-In)

    Best for: Indoor or sheltered outdoor locations with power access

    Wi-Fi cameras that plug into a wall are a nice middle ground. They remove the battery hassle and, depending on the model, may support RTSP or ONVIF, which opens the door to NAS use. They’re still dependent on your Wi-Fi network, though, so placement and signal strength matter.

    Pros:

    • Easy setup with permanent power
    • Many support smart features like motion zones
    • Some are compatible with NAS via RTSP or ONVIF

    Cons:

    • Needs to be placed near a power outlet
    • Wi-Fi interruptions can affect performance
    • Not all support local recording or open protocols

    Storage:

    • Often includes SD card support
    • Optional cloud storage
    • Limited NAS support depending on the model
    Indoor plug-in Wi-Fi security camera on a kitchen counter with visible power cable
    An indoor plug-in camera setup — simple to install but needs to stay near a socket.

    PoE (Power over Ethernet) Cameras

    Best for: Long-term, reliable setups with full storage control

    This is the route I’m planning to take. PoE cameras use a single Ethernet cable to provide both power and data, making them ideal for stable connections and continuous recording. They work extremely well with NAS systems like Frigate, MotionEye, or Synology Surveillance Station. While installation takes more effort, the reliability and flexibility are worth it.

    I’m currently exploring how to integrate a PoE camera system into my NAS setup to enable local recording and give me full control over my footage without relying on the cloud.

    Pros:

    • One cable for power and data
    • Stable connection with no Wi-Fi dropouts
    • Usually support RTSP and ONVIF
    • Perfect for NAS and continuous recording

    Cons:

    • Installation can be time-consuming
    • Requires PoE switch or injector
    • You’ll need to run Ethernet cables through your home

    Storage:

    • Full NAS integration supported
    • Local SD card or cloud may also be available
    • Excellent for 24-hour recording with alerts
    Diagram of Reolink PoE and Wi-Fi security camera system connected to a PoE switch, router, and NVR
    A look at a full PoE camera system setup — reliable, scalable, and ideal for NAS integration

    Storage Options at a Glance

    Storage TypeProsCons
    CloudAccessible from anywhere, simple to set upPrivacy concerns, recurring subscription fees
    SD CardLocal and private, no subscription requiredLimited capacity, footage only accessible via device
    NASCentralised, scalable, privateRequires setup and compatible hardware

    Quick Checklist: What’s Best for You?

    ✅ I want something easy to set up, no cables, and don’t care much about recording control

    → Cloud-Focused Camera

    ✅ I don’t have outdoor power and want flexibility

    → Battery Camera (but be ready to recharge it)

    ✅ I live in a sunny area and don’t want to climb a ladder to recharge

    → Solar Camera

    ✅ I have power outlets near the camera and want better reliability

    → Wi-Fi Camera

    ✅ I want full control, 24/7 recording, and local storage through NAS

    → PoE Camera


    Final Thoughts

    Every camera type has its place. If you just want to keep an eye on your front door and get notifications on your phone, a cloud-first model or SD card camera might be enough. But if you’re tired of recharging batteries or you want more control over your footage, it might be time to think bigger.

    For me, the tipping point was having to regularly take down cameras just to recharge them and not being able to rely on solar panels. I’m moving to PoE to get a more stable, scalable solution.

    Next time, I’ll be comparing different camera brands and what each one does well, so you can choose the right fit for your setup.